"Little black face, beautiful abbissina,
wait and hope that Dekar is approaching ... "
Peppe
Hello everyone! From the comments I realize that the last two measures were a bit 'too pissed off and even if you and' most liked 'from now on will stay' always faithful to my true character and that 'one of a man calm and peaceful . So this time I will tell you everything peacefully, more so 'and not' that great success' in the meantime.
I stayed a few days in Addis Ababa and I did not know exactly what to do 'cause focused heavily on the arrival of my friend about the route to be followed here in Ethiopia. I just knew that the place more 'interesting was Lalibela in the north, where there are 11 churches that have a strange characteristic: instead of rise majestically upward, are literally dug down into the rock, and then their roof and 'at ground level. And almost certainly 'been made for' Muslims are not the saw from a distance, and indeed not until one sees' no one comes close. They are truly extraordinary building, built from top to bottom and some churches are composed of a single block of stone, without adding any other material! One thing unique. King Lalibela was just that the built 'in 1100. From Lalibela
it more 'sensible would be to make a turn off coming up in Axum, even more' to the north, and then return to Addis Ababa for another route to the west, but unfortunately I did not have enough money to do it with me and there were no seats in addition to Addis Ababa where they can take. Until I reach the Axum there but the ones we have been told that there 'so great' to see, there are only a couple of large obelisks, one of which, inter alia, was in Rome a few years ago and only last year 'was returned to its original place. From Lalibela we put at least 2 days to get there, then two more days to go, so 'I gave up and came back here in Addis Ababa. Ah, for fans of Indiana Jones (do not say for archeology lovers 'cause I do not think there are among those following this blog, no offense of course) it seems that the lost ark will find them'! It '. Legend has it that the Queen of Sheba went 'on Israel to pay a visit to King Solomon, he falls in love and had a son, Menelik, and later the ark was given to this child that the port' in Axum. Apart from the more 'high priests Orthodox Christians can no' but 'see (mmm. .. but looks a bit'!) And all the faithful are truly convinced that the ark came to find them '. The rest of the mondo e' molto scettico. E fra l'altro non puo' essere perche' nel film si vede chiaramente che alla fine l'arca finisce nelle mani degli americani!
Da Addis Abeba a Lalibela la strada e' in costruzione e a parte qualche tratto gia' asfaltato il grosso e' un continuo attraversare cantieri. I tecnici e gli ingegneri sono cinesi. Inoltre e' quasi sempre un arrampicarsi o scendere per montagne, affianco a paurosi dirupi e si procede lentamente, quindi anche per coprire brevi distanze ci si mette parecchie ore. Infine per qualche motivo i pullman non viaggiano mai di notte e prima di sera ci si ferma a dormire per poi ripartire alle 5 di mattina del giorno dopo, tutti i pullman qui partono a quell'ora. Questo potrebbe sembrare una cosa molto drammatica per chi I know, not knowing that certain disdain the hot bed in the morning and saw that there are in the early afternoon, however, 'has retained an advantage: up to 5.30 am the coach actually part. 'Cause anything other than what you said and I still had' that virtually all of Africa except for Ethiopia, buses and minibuses depart only when full. In the case of the minibus was also a sense, in fact they are like taxis and it 'just wait till you' fill it (I intend to fill that among people and goods can no longer 'to put in even a pin). But in the case of buses and 'unnerving. I mean 'if you must start at 12 for example, at 12 o'clock, like a clock Swiss, the engine will start. The driver from 'a little' gas bruuum bruuuum and you have the feeling of being about to leave. Then spend 10 minutes, half an hour, an hour. After a couple of hours you start to think about anything else. Among other things, though in some cases you must wait until all the seats are occupied, others must wait until 'well all the space in between is completely filled with people standing!
back to Ethiopia and I must say that in spite of everything ', however, pleasant to travel because of the beautiful scenery that you pass through. There are areas around Addis Ababa from the thriving vegetation, while heading north, everything becomes dry. The thing that makes the most 'impression are the beds of the rivers dried up completely, it passes over bridges and under the majestic can not see a trickle of water. As in Sicily, one of the main problems of Ethiopia and '... drought '.
The plateau extends to an eye in a wide perdida 'endless heart and a thought arises: this was all ours! If only the perfidious Albion, no time to declare war, there had driven out to kick some ass! How not to think about it. Pero 'at least, so' as I was told that German colonialism had brought something positive in Namibia: Windhoek beer, in the case of Ethiopia we brought the espresso machine, a rarity 'in the rest of Africa. Here even the most 'loser has a little bar, but then I always take the "bursting" that and 'coffee' and you 'together and it tastes delicious, or I'll get the coffee' in the homes of Ethiopian coffee ceremony to call it, pretty much ready right from the coffee beans' raw! Bake them, mash them and finally you drink. More 'than anything else, and' nice because it 's a way to enter the homes and you know the whole family and often part of the neighborhood.
There are also many traditional good and original. The most 'well known and is called injera and' a kind of soft, spongy bread that serves as base for other dishes above, such as curry and vegetables. You do not use fork or spoon, take pieces of injera and with this one picks up the food.
Another typical dish consists of chunks of meat with onion and chilli on a hot plate and then catered 'one that I have not the courage to try' cause it makes me feel: raw beef. Cut directly from the animal and you eat with chili.
Onward or return to Lalibela I stopped in a town called Dese. Plain, with a long dusty road and central barracks around. The second time, returning to Addis, I got them 'in the early afternoon. I was in the hotel restaurant and the waitress, Ejegaje, told me he was about to finish work, if I wanted to go for a walk with her. And so 'we went out.
First we went to a Little House where there were her sister and mother and we made the coffee ceremony. Almost all of these Little House, everywhere in Africa, are made with a mixture of land that fits in the middle of wooden poles. Sometimes in this wall of earth and 'covered with some cloth, often many bags side by side. They are usually formed by two small room, which serves as a living room and bedroom and one kitchen. After 3
coffee 'we headed to another Little House, this much more' away, in the slums. Li 'were his brother and another mother (yes, there' some INCONSISTENCY 'in this, though I think that this was the natural mother). Even them 'we made the coffee ceremony, coffee 3 others'. Then you
Ejegaje and 'taking a break' and brother has abandoned talks over Arsenal, Inter Milan, AC Milan, Chelsea, etc. ... and took a serious tone. He said he was very happy, he knew that I was a good person who could be trusted absolutely, must now see how much time between Ejegaje could be achieved in Italy. There were to see some technical details for the wedding such as the fact that they were Orthodox, and I am Catholic, but would not be a problem. More 'in the' we would have reached him too, maybe in a year. Not that this is the first time I understood a situation like that, but this broke the speed record '. And do not think that in the meantime I gave him rope or was vague, I said very clearly that there must be a misunderstanding ... that was a bit 'too early to talk about certain things ... you ', and' beautiful but I do not think of being in love ... and then I'm a well ', a solitary wanderer who sees marriage in a gilded cage suffocating and claustrophobic ... but it was like talking to the wind, he continued to discuss visas, airline tickets and wedding cakes.
Pero 'ok,' whatever they were all very kind, I spent a really nice day with them ... and anyway I'm still pondering the offer!
;-) Ah, I answer in advance for your obvious, obvious, eternal questions: No. Ejegaje By the end I did nothing.
The day after the stretch from Addis Ababa and Dese 'was dramatic, a day some' unlucky. Before and 'tire exploded a mini-bus, but luckily we drifter We are not finished in June 'to the precipice. Then, after repairs, the mini-bus and 'failure to stop several times and then finally, do not put more' on the fly. We were still a couple of hours so, 'until' and 'past a bus on which we climbed all. A few miles and pam! the wheel and 'bored! However during the night we finally reached Addis Ababa.
With regards to how to continue the journey, and I say so 'is also the comment of Daniel, I have not a return ticket (I had only gone to Johannesburg) but I know that now drawing to a close' cause I "bottled" in a dead end. If you look at the map to the north is' the borders with Eritrea, but Ethiopia (and also with Djibouti) are closed, east is' Somalia and not 'their thing, and the tiny Djibouti which may andro' a few days. From Djibouti wishing you could take a boat and go to Yemen across the Gulf of Aden, but in this period and 'sconsigliatissimo' cause these boats are illegal and if until recently the governments of Djibouti and Yemen turned a blind eye, in these days with all the mess they are doing Somali pirates in Gulf of Aden, Yemen's navy is often attacking and sinking the boats and there were also many deaths. After the survivors (who are indeed often Somali refugees) are all arrested. Stay to the west of Sudan. You could actually get through it and to Egypt. Until a few days ago I thought the main problem was the fact that to obtain a visa must wait at least 3 weeks, more often '. An Australian couple, however, 'he told me that if you are requesting a transit visa, do it in a few days. E 'replaced by a new problem in Sudan no credit card works and so you have to bring their money here, but I have reached the limit with one of my two cards (VISA) and the other does not work.
And here I take this opportunity to tell you that it is not 'my fault that I have reached the limit with the card but' bank (NatWest, among other things, the second British bank, let alone!) Which has unilaterally and without even sending me a e-mail notifications changed the rules! I mean 'until recently I could take 1000 pounds (about 1100 €) per month sia come spese sia come anticipo contante. Quando stavo a Zanzibar non riuscivo a capire come mai non uscivano piu' soldi e pensavo che me l'avevano bloccata per qualche motivo, cosi' ho telefonato e il tipo mi ha detto che potevo ancora fare 600 pound di spese in quel mese, ma non prelevare contanti. Questo davvero e' sintomatico di come ormai le banche stanno con le pezze al culo, cioe' andare ad abbassare il limite alle carte sfigatissime come la mia! E vi dico la verita', anche se questo fatto mi sta danneggiando, sono comunque contentissimo che finalmente questo castello di carta sta finalmente crollando, o, piu' filosoficamente, il velo di maya del capitalismo internazionale si stia dissolvendo... illusione... solo illusione. Riguardo poi ai banchieri I suggest you give him a better hoe so that 'if they go to dig the earth. Reaching 'for the first time the feeling of doing something practical and not particularly harmful and parasitic to society'. And if you do not want to hoe, that hoe it to him nailed in the head ... quietly.
regard to the photos, also for the fuck of censorship (and eventually I angered you did well this time!) I have to put aside here: Photos
Many kisses. Maybe the next post will be 'the last ... and then back home. Piergiorgio
Thanks, Daniel, Mark and Save for the comments! A Piergiorgio say: Yes, 'and that' the message! I risked my skin to give you this truth '. Rats forever. And if you can 'seem like something a bit' rough, put it this way ': it is better to live a little' rough De Cubertain to die!
Saturday, April 18, 2009
How To Solve A Bloated Stomach
The terrifying journey from Nairobi to Addis Ababa
Hello everyone. I wrote this post three days ago, but at the time of publishing had not worked. Today I tried again and still nothing ... I thought there was a problem with blogger.com but after I 'came with a suspicion and a search on google I found out that in Ethiopia blogger.com and' censored! Along with most other blog sites! Not only is' impossible to publish but also to see any blog.
Obviously it takes more to stop someone like me (aside from antics, as well as a personal passion I had to refine techniques in the office when the illusion of us do not use the Internet. In this case, and 'simply a proxy for the record : www.vtunnel.com)
I take this opportunity to send a vaffankulo to all the allegations, always. And we remain vigilant so that 'what' is not done soon in Italy (with any excuse they like it there appioppare here in Ethiopia, the authorities 'even say that it is a technical problem! All this since 2006!)
A' Last thing. In these two days I was a bit 'sad' cause my friend at the last moment decided not to come and do not know if will be able to 'come in the next few days. The post that follows, 'the original one written before I knew it was not coming.
---------- Hello everyone! They are in "our" Ethiopia, Addis Ababa. Camels on the streets have sprung up in the sky and the North Star. A traveler network that ends up on this blog and see the banner that says "Dekar in South Africa" \u200b\u200bwill think ': Ethiopia in South Africa? But this will not Dekar 's a bit confused? No, dear traveler. The fact 'that the journey had begun them' and then gradually I got here. So do not break. However now I will tell you the journey from Nairobi to here. "We were told to expect the worst and the worst 'state" had told an Israeli couple che l'aveva fatto (all'inverso). In effetti e' stato a tratti allucinante e sconfortante, pero' a conti fatti anche molto avventuroso e divertente.
Allora. Poco dopo aver scritto l'ultimo post ho preso un taxi per andare in un quartiere nella periferia di Nairobi chiamato Isli, abitato in prevalenza da somali, dove mi avevano detto che partono pulman o camion per Moyale, la citta' al confine fra il Kenya e l'Etiopia.
Volevo andare e tornare prima che facesse buio perche' Nairobi, ad eccezione della zona centrale intorno all'Hilton, con le tenebre diventa molto pericolosa, pero' siamo rimasti bloccati in un traffico infernale. Cosi' siamo arrivati in questo quartiere quando era ormai buio e il tassista era spaventatissimo, continuava a guardarsi intorno nervosamente e a borbottare che i somali sono gente cattiva, gente cattiva.
Non sapevamo nemmeno precisamente dove andare, poi ci hanno indirizzati verso una via buia che era completamente bloccata da alcune auto che si erano impantanate nel fango. Allora siamo scesi e abbiamo proseguito a piedi. Il tassista era sempre piu' spaventato e mi trasmetteva uno stress addosso incredibile, fra l'altro avevo tutto con me, passaporto, carta di credito e quella cavolo di macchina fotografica (questa macchina fotografica mi ha insegnato solo una cosa: chi possiede e' posseduto). Finalmente siamo arrivati di fronte a un minuscolo baracchino fatiscente che fungeva da ufficio per questo pullman.
Dentro non c'era nessuno ma e' sbucato un signore that made me a ticket. He said the coaches would have taken at least 35 hours, but almost certainly more, and that he would leave at 11 am the next day. On time, please.
The next morning I was there at 11 'but the coach was not there. I looked inside the shack and in the beginning it seemed that there was none, then huddled in a corner I saw a little boy little rickety. Already had 'the look of an old yellow eyes and yellow of some disease.
I asked where was the bus and he said that he would arrive in minutes. I sat on a plastic chair at the edge of the road, and I was a bit 'so', looking at people who passed in this district of Somalia. Towards
the 4 I began to suspect that any coach would not come. Around 5 o'clock this opinion was shared by all those waiting and by the way many of them had already 'done the day before this experience. But the little chap 'continues to ensure that the bus was there' them 'to get only a few minutes. At 6 also the little chap, under pressure, admitted that no bus would come, but certainly the next day '!
I and the majority we took it easy but some are inkazzati and started yelling. Eventually an elderly woman has gone insane and after suddenly entered the small shack-office began to beat him bad. The little chap to be honest did not react fist fights, just trying to parry the blows, while everyone else shouted the woman to stop (I think, spoke in Swahili). No one but 'the physically blocked, maybe' cause in the end we were all happy that this alert seize a little prick 'club. Then, after you have finished Struppa good and better, he's the Lady 'with her almost every round.
We were only the few that they had to leave, there were no saints (April 10 and was, as I said in the post, I had to reach Addis Ababa on 15 for an appointment at the airport with a friend came from Italy). We made it clear to the guy who was now better resolve the situation and he has in effect 'because from the very beginning, going back and forth to find a passage in the truck.
the end and 'managed to find a place in a truck that was leaving for Moyale, but the problem was that these trucks usually you can' be on top and then so 'is not so dramatic, but not on this truck: carrying planks of wood and there was a small space between the end of this axis and the edge of the trailer, little more 'than one meter. Li 'I should have put, staying sat down' at the bottom, narrow strait. Click
35 hours or more 'buried them' in conjunction with 4 other unfortunates did not seem to be the case. I also believe that it was not even so sure 'cause if such was the case a hard braking the wooden planks were slide forward crushing.
Fortunately in the meantime I met a distinguished gentleman in his thirties, Hussen, who had been in Italy as a child and a sister who works in Milan. Hussen, without asking anything in return, and 'made an effort to help me and eventually I found a situation thousand times better: a place in a truck in the driver's cab to a city' called Marsabit, approximately 8 hours from the border. Li 'I could rest for the night and then take another truck the next day. Perfect.
In the cab of the truck was really good, wide, with a beautiful view. Besides me and the driver was a boy, Ismael, who was among those waiting for the bus before and after we got started to discuss various things, especially religion, and he in fact 'a devout practicing Muslim.
Around 3 am we stopped for a break in a place called Isola. Until that time the road was in good condition but they 'would suck on to the border. In the lay-by truckers talking all agitated and restless, and I asked Ismael what they were saying. It was that night that the bandits were active on the stretch of road from them 'up to Marsabit and some trucks had been attacked.
Cosi 'we decided to continue with two other trucks, such as a mini-caravan to be as' safe. Ismael told me that this band usually block the road in some way and when the truck stops, armed with rifles are made to hand over all. Other times just suddenly appear from the sides of the road at gunpoint and if the truck does not stop shooting. He added that if we stopped I was not absolutely oppose or react to what they said wit 'me killed. Ale '.
We actually broken and just after the road began to suck, at times you could not even speak of a real road. A truck ahead of us in the middle and one behind. That went out fast and often disappeared from view after a while and whatever 'took another route. But the other was left behind and often so in the end we were almost always alone.
The area was deserted, there was a full moon and the shadows degli arbusti creavano continuamente immagini di feroci banditi armati. Quando e' spuntato il primo raggio di sole un'ondata di rilassamento ma ha invaso e nonostante la strada mi sono addormentato.
Mi sono svegliato un paio di ore dopo, ci eravamo fermati. Davanti a noi c'era anche l'altro camion, fermo, e tutti discutevano animatamente. I ragazzi che viaggiavano sopra il carico dell'altro camion sostenevano di aver visto alcuni uomini armati in mezzo ai cespugli, lontano. Ho detto a Ismael ma come e' possibile? C'e' la luce ormai! Ma mi ha risposto che non c'entra niente. I banditi sono attivi 24 ore su 24.
Dopo una decina di minuti fu deciso che avremmo fatto quel tratto alla massima velocita', tutti e due i camion assieme, vicini vicini. Ismael was quiet: God would help us. Among other things, on the night before, talking about religion, he said, see John, we could die tomorrow, but this is not 'important ... and so 'on. Unfortunately, since he was a deep and fascinating speech I did not even Treaty shall balls at the moment and I think it was too late to do so.
Then, still calmly, said he now wanted to call his wife to hear one last time in case something happened. Unfortunately I had no faith in divine comfort me (and how I envy you in those moments, Salvo! As you could see them 'impertubabile and brave to face the bandits!) And me the most about' the talk of the driver who complained in particular the fact that often the bandits pounding badly, even when no one opposes and can 'happen to end up with some broken bones. And this was the situation.
We turned the engine and go! The driver then no longer has to 'nibble a word, very concentrated on driving. We ran like crazy, jumping all over the road ditches and potholes. Is not 'nothing happened, just one point and' popped a guy from the bushes running toward us yelling something and making a sign to stop, but was not armed and therefore we are not there just cacati.
And so 'we arrived safely to the one checkpoint in the area (in southern Kenya catered' one every 5 km in the northern one for every 500, ok, '). Li 'we had breakfast and expect it to arrive in the meantime other trucks. Now we were really a caravan, 6 or 7 trucks, and from them 'we left traveling together' cause that was the trait most 'dangerous of all. Fortunately, when it 's a caravan so' long 'very rare that the bandits attack. Keep in mind that each truck was carrying the load above an average of ten people, so we were really a lot.
As you proceed, from time to time, the driver became even more 'worried and told us about the ways' of the assault that had happened there' where we were going. What is really impressive was the "when" the attacks had occurred. It was not a year ago, or months, or at least weeks. No. The day before yesterday I surfaced from them '. Three days ago they attacked a friend of mine after that curve. Yesterday they have attacked one here!
He told us also a very unlucky trucker who three days earlier had been attacked twice on the same day, both outward and return! Ismael I asked if he knew who they were. He said they are mainly of the tribe 'of Make them, that inhabit these areas largely as nomads living by hunting. They dress almost like the Masai, but, unlike them, did not hesitate to firearms. When, as now, there are periods of major drought 'and can not hunt animals to survive the attack truck. We also made two stops in small villages Make them. And in fact they are the shit, do not wanted to take pictures. Then I made some of the hidden (after I put them). Those to which I was not acquainted with it but instead they came to protest in other ways too aggressive! Luckily there was Ismael, which always appears to me the situation.
After passing the last point of operation, with the rocks down to the edge of the road created a perfect hideout at about 5 pm we arrived in Marsabit.
The next morning (April 12) I went looking for a truck with Ismael. Around 2 I found a step above the load of one (they said) there was 'them' to go. I got up and she was not bad, but 'a few minutes later I heard that the truck would not go directly but the border would have stopped for the night somewhere in the middle of the desert. I feared then that I would not have done more 'in time for the event, so' I went down and I had been looking for something else.
But there was nothing to be done all the trucks stopped in that place for the night and left again the next morning. In the meantime, however, 'I found a place where there was a truck driver in the cab of this part and I did well to get off the truck before' cause then I saw it starting at 7 pm, then I would stay up there 'on the load in the sun still for 5 hours!
We started around 8 in the evening. As we brought the car load of tourists only seen during this trip Nairobi-Addis Ababa: 3 American boys who had miraculously arrived for them 'with a normal car (not an SUV). The machine had reached more 'dead than alive, but now they had done to repair the stretch of road was really impossible.
We went into the desert proper, you could not see more 'even a small shrub around and around midnight we stopped to sleep in a place a little' Spartan, let us say so '.
The next morning at 7 and a half we left. The driver said that in 3 hours we arrived in Moyale, the closest 'to the border. Very good. The road was a mess of mud and getting worse. About 8 and a half we stuck for the first time. We managed to spantanarci (there?) Just a couple of hours later and we broken. Fifty yards and we re-stuck. Among other things we were not the only, the whole street was full of trucks blocked. After a couple of hours we left but in the meantime had punctured a tire. There was no spare wheel, had to repair it on site. Fortunately now we were no longer 'in the desert full of shrubs, under which were out of the sun. I sat in the shade and waited events. We left around 2 and a half ago. So it took us almost 6 hours to do 100 meters. D'altrocanto not we all Shumacher. In the evening we arrived at last in this fucking Moyale, a town split in two by the Kenya-Ethiopia border. And again I must thank the Swiss couple (and the saint who gave it to me mandata) per avermi detto che il visto per l'Etiopia non si puo' piu' fare li'. Senno' dopo tutto questo dovevo ritornare indietro a Nairobi! Mi sparavo.
La mattina dopo (14 aprile) sono partito per Addis Abeba (con sosta notturna in una citta' chiamata Awasa) e sul pullman ho conosciuto due sorelle etiopi, Yeshi e Isega (Salvo, desisti!) che mi hanno aiutato in tutto. La sera abbiamo visitato Awasa, il suo lago e un parco pieno di uccelli e poi abbiamo mangiato un buonissimo piatto tradizionale etiope (prezzo: mezzo euro!). il pomeriggio dopo ho finalmente raggiunto Addis Abeba pelo pelo per l'appuntamento - sic! - (nel senso che cosi' avevo scritto, ma anche come piccolo singhiozzo triste, ma da qui in poi ve lo racconto la next time)
With respect to photos, I could also use the proxy but it takes a lifetime. I put in an alternative here:
Photos of the trip from Nairobi to Addis Ababa
Hello everyone. I wrote this post three days ago, but at the time of publishing had not worked. Today I tried again and still nothing ... I thought there was a problem with blogger.com but after I 'came with a suspicion and a search on google I found out that in Ethiopia blogger.com and' censored! Along with most other blog sites! Not only is' impossible to publish but also to see any blog.
Obviously it takes more to stop someone like me (aside from antics, as well as a personal passion I had to refine techniques in the office when the illusion of us do not use the Internet. In this case, and 'simply a proxy for the record : www.vtunnel.com)
I take this opportunity to send a vaffankulo to all the allegations, always. And we remain vigilant so that 'what' is not done soon in Italy (with any excuse they like it there appioppare here in Ethiopia, the authorities 'even say that it is a technical problem! All this since 2006!)
A' Last thing. In these two days I was a bit 'sad' cause my friend at the last moment decided not to come and do not know if will be able to 'come in the next few days. The post that follows, 'the original one written before I knew it was not coming.
---------- Hello everyone! They are in "our" Ethiopia, Addis Ababa. Camels on the streets have sprung up in the sky and the North Star. A traveler network that ends up on this blog and see the banner that says "Dekar in South Africa" \u200b\u200bwill think ': Ethiopia in South Africa? But this will not Dekar 's a bit confused? No, dear traveler. The fact 'that the journey had begun them' and then gradually I got here. So do not break. However now I will tell you the journey from Nairobi to here. "We were told to expect the worst and the worst 'state" had told an Israeli couple che l'aveva fatto (all'inverso). In effetti e' stato a tratti allucinante e sconfortante, pero' a conti fatti anche molto avventuroso e divertente.
Allora. Poco dopo aver scritto l'ultimo post ho preso un taxi per andare in un quartiere nella periferia di Nairobi chiamato Isli, abitato in prevalenza da somali, dove mi avevano detto che partono pulman o camion per Moyale, la citta' al confine fra il Kenya e l'Etiopia.
Volevo andare e tornare prima che facesse buio perche' Nairobi, ad eccezione della zona centrale intorno all'Hilton, con le tenebre diventa molto pericolosa, pero' siamo rimasti bloccati in un traffico infernale. Cosi' siamo arrivati in questo quartiere quando era ormai buio e il tassista era spaventatissimo, continuava a guardarsi intorno nervosamente e a borbottare che i somali sono gente cattiva, gente cattiva.
Non sapevamo nemmeno precisamente dove andare, poi ci hanno indirizzati verso una via buia che era completamente bloccata da alcune auto che si erano impantanate nel fango. Allora siamo scesi e abbiamo proseguito a piedi. Il tassista era sempre piu' spaventato e mi trasmetteva uno stress addosso incredibile, fra l'altro avevo tutto con me, passaporto, carta di credito e quella cavolo di macchina fotografica (questa macchina fotografica mi ha insegnato solo una cosa: chi possiede e' posseduto). Finalmente siamo arrivati di fronte a un minuscolo baracchino fatiscente che fungeva da ufficio per questo pullman.
Dentro non c'era nessuno ma e' sbucato un signore that made me a ticket. He said the coaches would have taken at least 35 hours, but almost certainly more, and that he would leave at 11 am the next day. On time, please.
The next morning I was there at 11 'but the coach was not there. I looked inside the shack and in the beginning it seemed that there was none, then huddled in a corner I saw a little boy little rickety. Already had 'the look of an old yellow eyes and yellow of some disease.
I asked where was the bus and he said that he would arrive in minutes. I sat on a plastic chair at the edge of the road, and I was a bit 'so', looking at people who passed in this district of Somalia. Towards
the 4 I began to suspect that any coach would not come. Around 5 o'clock this opinion was shared by all those waiting and by the way many of them had already 'done the day before this experience. But the little chap 'continues to ensure that the bus was there' them 'to get only a few minutes. At 6 also the little chap, under pressure, admitted that no bus would come, but certainly the next day '!
I and the majority we took it easy but some are inkazzati and started yelling. Eventually an elderly woman has gone insane and after suddenly entered the small shack-office began to beat him bad. The little chap to be honest did not react fist fights, just trying to parry the blows, while everyone else shouted the woman to stop (I think, spoke in Swahili). No one but 'the physically blocked, maybe' cause in the end we were all happy that this alert seize a little prick 'club. Then, after you have finished Struppa good and better, he's the Lady 'with her almost every round.
We were only the few that they had to leave, there were no saints (April 10 and was, as I said in the post, I had to reach Addis Ababa on 15 for an appointment at the airport with a friend came from Italy). We made it clear to the guy who was now better resolve the situation and he has in effect 'because from the very beginning, going back and forth to find a passage in the truck.
the end and 'managed to find a place in a truck that was leaving for Moyale, but the problem was that these trucks usually you can' be on top and then so 'is not so dramatic, but not on this truck: carrying planks of wood and there was a small space between the end of this axis and the edge of the trailer, little more 'than one meter. Li 'I should have put, staying sat down' at the bottom, narrow strait. Click
35 hours or more 'buried them' in conjunction with 4 other unfortunates did not seem to be the case. I also believe that it was not even so sure 'cause if such was the case a hard braking the wooden planks were slide forward crushing.
Fortunately in the meantime I met a distinguished gentleman in his thirties, Hussen, who had been in Italy as a child and a sister who works in Milan. Hussen, without asking anything in return, and 'made an effort to help me and eventually I found a situation thousand times better: a place in a truck in the driver's cab to a city' called Marsabit, approximately 8 hours from the border. Li 'I could rest for the night and then take another truck the next day. Perfect.
In the cab of the truck was really good, wide, with a beautiful view. Besides me and the driver was a boy, Ismael, who was among those waiting for the bus before and after we got started to discuss various things, especially religion, and he in fact 'a devout practicing Muslim.
Around 3 am we stopped for a break in a place called Isola. Until that time the road was in good condition but they 'would suck on to the border. In the lay-by truckers talking all agitated and restless, and I asked Ismael what they were saying. It was that night that the bandits were active on the stretch of road from them 'up to Marsabit and some trucks had been attacked.
Cosi 'we decided to continue with two other trucks, such as a mini-caravan to be as' safe. Ismael told me that this band usually block the road in some way and when the truck stops, armed with rifles are made to hand over all. Other times just suddenly appear from the sides of the road at gunpoint and if the truck does not stop shooting. He added that if we stopped I was not absolutely oppose or react to what they said wit 'me killed. Ale '.
We actually broken and just after the road began to suck, at times you could not even speak of a real road. A truck ahead of us in the middle and one behind. That went out fast and often disappeared from view after a while and whatever 'took another route. But the other was left behind and often so in the end we were almost always alone.
The area was deserted, there was a full moon and the shadows degli arbusti creavano continuamente immagini di feroci banditi armati. Quando e' spuntato il primo raggio di sole un'ondata di rilassamento ma ha invaso e nonostante la strada mi sono addormentato.
Mi sono svegliato un paio di ore dopo, ci eravamo fermati. Davanti a noi c'era anche l'altro camion, fermo, e tutti discutevano animatamente. I ragazzi che viaggiavano sopra il carico dell'altro camion sostenevano di aver visto alcuni uomini armati in mezzo ai cespugli, lontano. Ho detto a Ismael ma come e' possibile? C'e' la luce ormai! Ma mi ha risposto che non c'entra niente. I banditi sono attivi 24 ore su 24.
Dopo una decina di minuti fu deciso che avremmo fatto quel tratto alla massima velocita', tutti e due i camion assieme, vicini vicini. Ismael was quiet: God would help us. Among other things, on the night before, talking about religion, he said, see John, we could die tomorrow, but this is not 'important ... and so 'on. Unfortunately, since he was a deep and fascinating speech I did not even Treaty shall balls at the moment and I think it was too late to do so.
Then, still calmly, said he now wanted to call his wife to hear one last time in case something happened. Unfortunately I had no faith in divine comfort me (and how I envy you in those moments, Salvo! As you could see them 'impertubabile and brave to face the bandits!) And me the most about' the talk of the driver who complained in particular the fact that often the bandits pounding badly, even when no one opposes and can 'happen to end up with some broken bones. And this was the situation.
We turned the engine and go! The driver then no longer has to 'nibble a word, very concentrated on driving. We ran like crazy, jumping all over the road ditches and potholes. Is not 'nothing happened, just one point and' popped a guy from the bushes running toward us yelling something and making a sign to stop, but was not armed and therefore we are not there just cacati.
And so 'we arrived safely to the one checkpoint in the area (in southern Kenya catered' one every 5 km in the northern one for every 500, ok, '). Li 'we had breakfast and expect it to arrive in the meantime other trucks. Now we were really a caravan, 6 or 7 trucks, and from them 'we left traveling together' cause that was the trait most 'dangerous of all. Fortunately, when it 's a caravan so' long 'very rare that the bandits attack. Keep in mind that each truck was carrying the load above an average of ten people, so we were really a lot.
As you proceed, from time to time, the driver became even more 'worried and told us about the ways' of the assault that had happened there' where we were going. What is really impressive was the "when" the attacks had occurred. It was not a year ago, or months, or at least weeks. No. The day before yesterday I surfaced from them '. Three days ago they attacked a friend of mine after that curve. Yesterday they have attacked one here!
He told us also a very unlucky trucker who three days earlier had been attacked twice on the same day, both outward and return! Ismael I asked if he knew who they were. He said they are mainly of the tribe 'of Make them, that inhabit these areas largely as nomads living by hunting. They dress almost like the Masai, but, unlike them, did not hesitate to firearms. When, as now, there are periods of major drought 'and can not hunt animals to survive the attack truck. We also made two stops in small villages Make them. And in fact they are the shit, do not wanted to take pictures. Then I made some of the hidden (after I put them). Those to which I was not acquainted with it but instead they came to protest in other ways too aggressive! Luckily there was Ismael, which always appears to me the situation.
After passing the last point of operation, with the rocks down to the edge of the road created a perfect hideout at about 5 pm we arrived in Marsabit.
The next morning (April 12) I went looking for a truck with Ismael. Around 2 I found a step above the load of one (they said) there was 'them' to go. I got up and she was not bad, but 'a few minutes later I heard that the truck would not go directly but the border would have stopped for the night somewhere in the middle of the desert. I feared then that I would not have done more 'in time for the event, so' I went down and I had been looking for something else.
But there was nothing to be done all the trucks stopped in that place for the night and left again the next morning. In the meantime, however, 'I found a place where there was a truck driver in the cab of this part and I did well to get off the truck before' cause then I saw it starting at 7 pm, then I would stay up there 'on the load in the sun still for 5 hours!
We started around 8 in the evening. As we brought the car load of tourists only seen during this trip Nairobi-Addis Ababa: 3 American boys who had miraculously arrived for them 'with a normal car (not an SUV). The machine had reached more 'dead than alive, but now they had done to repair the stretch of road was really impossible.
We went into the desert proper, you could not see more 'even a small shrub around and around midnight we stopped to sleep in a place a little' Spartan, let us say so '.
The next morning at 7 and a half we left. The driver said that in 3 hours we arrived in Moyale, the closest 'to the border. Very good. The road was a mess of mud and getting worse. About 8 and a half we stuck for the first time. We managed to spantanarci (there?) Just a couple of hours later and we broken. Fifty yards and we re-stuck. Among other things we were not the only, the whole street was full of trucks blocked. After a couple of hours we left but in the meantime had punctured a tire. There was no spare wheel, had to repair it on site. Fortunately now we were no longer 'in the desert full of shrubs, under which were out of the sun. I sat in the shade and waited events. We left around 2 and a half ago. So it took us almost 6 hours to do 100 meters. D'altrocanto not we all Shumacher. In the evening we arrived at last in this fucking Moyale, a town split in two by the Kenya-Ethiopia border. And again I must thank the Swiss couple (and the saint who gave it to me mandata) per avermi detto che il visto per l'Etiopia non si puo' piu' fare li'. Senno' dopo tutto questo dovevo ritornare indietro a Nairobi! Mi sparavo.
La mattina dopo (14 aprile) sono partito per Addis Abeba (con sosta notturna in una citta' chiamata Awasa) e sul pullman ho conosciuto due sorelle etiopi, Yeshi e Isega (Salvo, desisti!) che mi hanno aiutato in tutto. La sera abbiamo visitato Awasa, il suo lago e un parco pieno di uccelli e poi abbiamo mangiato un buonissimo piatto tradizionale etiope (prezzo: mezzo euro!). il pomeriggio dopo ho finalmente raggiunto Addis Abeba pelo pelo per l'appuntamento - sic! - (nel senso che cosi' avevo scritto, ma anche come piccolo singhiozzo triste, ma da qui in poi ve lo racconto la next time)
With respect to photos, I could also use the proxy but it takes a lifetime. I put in an alternative here:
Photos of the trip from Nairobi to Addis Ababa
Happy Easter to everyone!
Oh, and by the way ... I'm at the point after all 'ste tarantelle least I remove the whim of writing: ETHIOPIAN GOVERNMENT TO FUCK! You are worse than Mussolini, Selassie and Mengistu put together.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Callaway Lr 1200 Laser Rangefinder
Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and Nairobi (Kenya) and Uganda
Hello everyone! I am writing from Nairobi, friends Nairobbery, where I arrived this morning after another 15 hours by bus from Kampala, but at least this time the coach had cushions.
Here in Nairobi I was there already 'been a dozen years ago and indeed I remembered more' ugly and stressful to me as it appears today. And 'this morning I'm fuckin' around nicely to the center. Now beginning to feel a bit 'tired but' I want to write the post 'cause I do not think I'll have' a possibility 'in the coming days.
Since the last time I finished a bit 'randomly in Kabale, in south-western Uganda, almost a few kilometers from the Congo and Rwanda to the south and west from there' I went on the lake Bunyonyi.
This lake and 'a truly spectacular place because' it contains in a mini archipelago dozens of green islets. One of these islands was entirely occupied by the guest house where I was for a week, stunning views and total peace, a really 'hot' place where I was never quiet. They felt and saw a myriad of birds, from tiny ones to big kids like hawks, ibis and herons. Plus 'had a small library, in particular, there were books of African history, so' I clear my head a few points. There was also a room where the evening the film projected, but 'apart on the first night we were still without power, by candlelight.
One day I did a tour of the lake with the canoe with a guide. Has' proved challenging enough, I thought rowing was only driving but just left me saddled an oar, and we arrived on dry land after two hours. Li 'we were right on the border with Rwanda, we walked for an hour through the green fields to a pygmy village, but that' in truth were not so 'low. Of course, when they knew my nationality 'I have big parties for the fact that a member of their tribe' is now our prime minister.
As I had suggested that the guidance I gave to the tribal chief ', an old calendar, a little bit of money, the equivalent of € 3 and perhaps why they felt compelled to do a dance for me. I already 'do not normally like to watch the dancing but this was really absurd. He was not there ' in the sky will 'on earth. I mean 'some have made others to sing and dance, but you could see it was nothing of a traditional dance, everyone just danced as best (and also that we take not) with its own style. Who would jump, who ran back and forth with his hands up, who was thrown to the ground. Apart from the children who enjoyed dancing and happy, the rest seemed to me a crazy bullshit. Some of the men seemed a little 'drunk. Then dancing, and finally 'finished and everyone is' back to doing what he was doing before my arrival, work the land, cut branches, preparing food etc. ... After
, returning with a canoe, and 'come before a rain and then suddenly the great flood. You can not 'describe how much water fell, we hurried to the shore and them' we repaired to the extent possible under the banana plants. The shower did not end more 'at some point I began to tremble with cold and after I' touched another hour and a half strokes to the guest house. Li 'and then I' came a strange question, but not 'the storm' was triggered by the dance of the pygmies? :-))
From Kabale could get in Rwanda but did not go for two reasons. First, because of the visas, which are ciaccando me too. Solati $ 80 (we use the right terms) from Zambia, Tanzania from $ 50, $ 20 transit visa for Kenya (a fact already '2 times) $ 50 Uganda, 30 this morning for the Ethiopian. If I was in Rwanda I had to spend $ 60 more to go 'for another 50 to redo it again to Uganda!
second reason is 'I do not have time, in fact I have an appointment for April 15 in Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, a close friend of mine, Titian, companion of many trips there and do the list because' it would be too long.
Now to get them 'I expect the most' difficult and hard for the whole trip, which unfortunately are confirming what I have done that journey in reverse, that is coming 'from Ethiopia. "We were told to expect the worst and the worst 'state," said an Israeli couple, and between the other and' very likely that the taken from here on the border with Ethiopia, I will have to 'do over load a truck through the desert! There 's only one bus a week, but nobody has been able to say in that day, as soon as I finish this post I have to go on the outskirts of Nairobi where I will know' when and how to start 'from here. Luckily, a Swiss couple known when I was at the lake told me that the rules have changed and the border are no more 'but we saw it here, wit' led up to it '(about 20 hours if there 'bus, about 30 hours if I go on the truck) and then I had to go back! How 'just happened to a poor wretch who had encountered.
To make it even more 'fun in the border area rife bands sprouting of robbers that if you simply take everything. However
ok, 'no one has ordered me to do and then it' s useless to complain of stars. Pero 'keep in mind that I'm doing it for you, just for you, blog readers! ;-) People Meditate, meditate.
Finally I tell you last night, while traveling, there were a couple of strange situations with the police. Until now, throughout the journey, he always behaved very well. I remember that before leaving I had read on various forums and blogs on the mind-blowing things and how African police are always trying to fuck but to be honest, I'll be 'lucky, have always been very kind anywhere.
yesterday and even 'success is not particularly serious, the first episode al confine, quando dopo il timbro del passaporto e il visto stavo facendo a piedi il tratto di strada per arrivare al pullman. Questi tratti di strada, in qualsiasi confine, di solito sono delle vie crucis, in particolare ci sono centinaia di sbandati che cercano di cambiare i soldi o a prezzi spudoratamente piu' bassi o spudoratamente piu' alti (perche' in questo caso sono falsi). Ieri notte invece non c'era nessuno pero' a un certo punto e' sbucato dal buio un soldato con un fucilone. Mi ha chiesto il passaporto e glie l'ho dato. Poi mi ha chiesto il certificato del vaccino della febbre gialla. E li' erano cavoli, perche' non ce l'ho e infatti fino all'ultimo ero stato in dubbio se farmelo a Kampala, pero' vari turisti mi avevano assicurato che non lo chiedono mai. Questo vaccino l'ho fatto quasi 10 anni fa, e la sua durata e' proprio 10 anni, quindi in realta' sono in regola, solo che nel frattempo ho perso il certificato. Allora ho iniziato a rispondere un po' vagamente: si' tutto a posto, l'ho fatto! Lui pero' insisteva per vedere il certificato. Era chiaro che in realta' stava cercando solo di spillarmi qualcosa di soldi e io qualche euro glielo avrei pure dato ma avevo paura che cosi' facendo ammettevo di non essere in regola e poi lui mi chiedeva una cifra molto piu' alta. Perche' in effetti e' obbligatorio per entrare in Kenya (e anche in Etiopia... speriamo bene). Allora ho continuato a essere vago, ho detto che comunque sarei stato solo di transito, ma lui insisteva. Alla fine ho fatto pretend to look for him among some papers and then I told him that I had it in your backpack on the bus. Luckily he did not want to set off the bus, said a couple of times and then how do we want? Then he finally shook his head, smiled in surrender and made me sign that I could go.
Shortly after we left on the bus, the second episode. There was a roadblock and stopped us. So far nothing strange, all the roads in Africa are filled with roadblocks. Whether you're on the bus, minibus, on your own (like when I was in Namibia by car or by scooter in Zanzibar) will stop a myriad of times. There 's a very fast control, many smiles, maybe a few jokes and go. Sometimes a few searches, not only borders but also in the middle of a street (in fact, now that I remember to Pablo in Botswana once made him a very long search, I and the rest of the bus waited for about twenty minutes before we return it) and ah Then a curious thing that I tell you: especially in Botswana and Zambia from time to time the bus stops, everyone must get off and walk on a kind of cloth soaked lands. Reason? Why 'as' doing the bacteria die under the shoes and can not enter the territory where we are heading! I will not understand these things but it seems a bit 'absurd'.
last night but the cops stopped us were strange, they acted quickly and aggressively. You could see they were tired and stressed. First they made us get off the bus with everything we had on us, in my case the bag with the camera and the important things. Then they made us line up in front of the bright lights of the bus. The headlight on the right and left women us men. It was a strange situation when someone was moving a bit 'from his seat to yell back on line. After about ten minutes we were all still so 'began passport controls and bags, all with a big pile, firing a few inches from the face of people.
Among other things, the type said to me: not you! not you! I was dazzled by this fucking pile until 'I finally focused who had no hand in my passport but to someone else and then actually, as tanned, I was not the black of the picture. Then I went to the bus and another policeman in front of the entrance began with a sort of wand to hit my bag and said repeatedly that you are here and that you are here? I said: Stop! There 'the camera! "What are you doing?" "Photos" "Ah, you are a journalist then?" "No." "So?"
At that point I did not know what to say, I do not know if an interrogation so 'absurd madness or method was well prepared so' then breaks down and admits a whole (but looking at the face of the policeman would opt for the former) but 'to Fortunately, a colleague called him and he you and 'away. Then I finally get on the bus, but you could not take anything on. All luggage should be put under. Some had accepted and were recovered, others were complaining 'cause if there is indeed' something delicate them in the bag 'as it sfracassa for sure. The driver from the frightened and pleading kept saying no, please do not complain, do as they say, they do it for us! I obviously I was not complaining, just waiting to put all their luggage and then hope to find a relatively good for my camera, but 'for some strange reason the police interrogation he called me, he conspired a bit 'maybe with a colleague in Swahili and then said that I, only I could bring the luggage with me on it. Among other things, I was the only one not to be searched. Will be the usual privileges muzungo (another that I had said, in all places where I've been so far, regardless of the language you speak, whites and especially white non-Africans are called: muzungo. It 's not a derogatory term, a little 'is perhaps ironic')
However, perhaps because they fear attacks 'anywhere before getting back on the bus (the station before leaving, after the border, after each pause) There' s always been a cop checked with metal detectors for all passengers.
respond to comments. Unless
Hello! I knew you would come back in full form. All hilarious.
PS The captain is not lost: patrolling the area around where you are heading for safety.
Hello Danilo! Well, I thought now that my contribution to the revolution could be more 'intellectual type of action ... But 'no! better the action and 'ten thousand times more' fun! Maybe you could do the rafting of the Thames with a surprise attack at the City of London! (I heard that on April 1 and 'been an April Fool financial and 4000 fighters have put fire to the City all day. We hope it is just the beginning!)
Concerning the photos were taken by the same organizers of rafting. The photographer moved over land on the shore and stood in the hot spots. Then simply burst. I have a cd full of photos, I put only a few, quite by chance.
Photo
Monkey
Monet
Henceforth photos of and around Lake Bunyonyi.
Non credo di aver finora parlato dell'arte africana. E' straordinaria, in particolare masks (used in rituals, in theatrical performances, dances, or as amulets).
More 'or less during our Middle Ages created works that resemble our contemporary art. Of course, in their case it's "Primitivism" while in our case and 'pure' genius'. " In that regard, here's a
Congolese mask of the sixteenth century used as an amulet for healing. Who 'of Benevento has already' figured out what our national artist of international fame this "looks." Sgam! ;-)
Now I must go. The next time I put some photos of Kampala and Nairobi.
my deepest sympathy 'to people who are suffering because of the terrible earthquake in Abbruzzo.
Hello everyone! I am writing from Nairobi, friends Nairobbery, where I arrived this morning after another 15 hours by bus from Kampala, but at least this time the coach had cushions.
Here in Nairobi I was there already 'been a dozen years ago and indeed I remembered more' ugly and stressful to me as it appears today. And 'this morning I'm fuckin' around nicely to the center. Now beginning to feel a bit 'tired but' I want to write the post 'cause I do not think I'll have' a possibility 'in the coming days.
Since the last time I finished a bit 'randomly in Kabale, in south-western Uganda, almost a few kilometers from the Congo and Rwanda to the south and west from there' I went on the lake Bunyonyi.
This lake and 'a truly spectacular place because' it contains in a mini archipelago dozens of green islets. One of these islands was entirely occupied by the guest house where I was for a week, stunning views and total peace, a really 'hot' place where I was never quiet. They felt and saw a myriad of birds, from tiny ones to big kids like hawks, ibis and herons. Plus 'had a small library, in particular, there were books of African history, so' I clear my head a few points. There was also a room where the evening the film projected, but 'apart on the first night we were still without power, by candlelight.
One day I did a tour of the lake with the canoe with a guide. Has' proved challenging enough, I thought rowing was only driving but just left me saddled an oar, and we arrived on dry land after two hours. Li 'we were right on the border with Rwanda, we walked for an hour through the green fields to a pygmy village, but that' in truth were not so 'low. Of course, when they knew my nationality 'I have big parties for the fact that a member of their tribe' is now our prime minister.
As I had suggested that the guidance I gave to the tribal chief ', an old calendar, a little bit of money, the equivalent of € 3 and perhaps why they felt compelled to do a dance for me. I already 'do not normally like to watch the dancing but this was really absurd. He was not there ' in the sky will 'on earth. I mean 'some have made others to sing and dance, but you could see it was nothing of a traditional dance, everyone just danced as best (and also that we take not) with its own style. Who would jump, who ran back and forth with his hands up, who was thrown to the ground. Apart from the children who enjoyed dancing and happy, the rest seemed to me a crazy bullshit. Some of the men seemed a little 'drunk. Then dancing, and finally 'finished and everyone is' back to doing what he was doing before my arrival, work the land, cut branches, preparing food etc. ... After
, returning with a canoe, and 'come before a rain and then suddenly the great flood. You can not 'describe how much water fell, we hurried to the shore and them' we repaired to the extent possible under the banana plants. The shower did not end more 'at some point I began to tremble with cold and after I' touched another hour and a half strokes to the guest house. Li 'and then I' came a strange question, but not 'the storm' was triggered by the dance of the pygmies? :-))
From Kabale could get in Rwanda but did not go for two reasons. First, because of the visas, which are ciaccando me too. Solati $ 80 (we use the right terms) from Zambia, Tanzania from $ 50, $ 20 transit visa for Kenya (a fact already '2 times) $ 50 Uganda, 30 this morning for the Ethiopian. If I was in Rwanda I had to spend $ 60 more to go 'for another 50 to redo it again to Uganda!
second reason is 'I do not have time, in fact I have an appointment for April 15 in Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, a close friend of mine, Titian, companion of many trips there and do the list because' it would be too long.
Now to get them 'I expect the most' difficult and hard for the whole trip, which unfortunately are confirming what I have done that journey in reverse, that is coming 'from Ethiopia. "We were told to expect the worst and the worst 'state," said an Israeli couple, and between the other and' very likely that the taken from here on the border with Ethiopia, I will have to 'do over load a truck through the desert! There 's only one bus a week, but nobody has been able to say in that day, as soon as I finish this post I have to go on the outskirts of Nairobi where I will know' when and how to start 'from here. Luckily, a Swiss couple known when I was at the lake told me that the rules have changed and the border are no more 'but we saw it here, wit' led up to it '(about 20 hours if there 'bus, about 30 hours if I go on the truck) and then I had to go back! How 'just happened to a poor wretch who had encountered.
To make it even more 'fun in the border area rife bands sprouting of robbers that if you simply take everything. However
ok, 'no one has ordered me to do and then it' s useless to complain of stars. Pero 'keep in mind that I'm doing it for you, just for you, blog readers! ;-) People Meditate, meditate.
Finally I tell you last night, while traveling, there were a couple of strange situations with the police. Until now, throughout the journey, he always behaved very well. I remember that before leaving I had read on various forums and blogs on the mind-blowing things and how African police are always trying to fuck but to be honest, I'll be 'lucky, have always been very kind anywhere.
yesterday and even 'success is not particularly serious, the first episode al confine, quando dopo il timbro del passaporto e il visto stavo facendo a piedi il tratto di strada per arrivare al pullman. Questi tratti di strada, in qualsiasi confine, di solito sono delle vie crucis, in particolare ci sono centinaia di sbandati che cercano di cambiare i soldi o a prezzi spudoratamente piu' bassi o spudoratamente piu' alti (perche' in questo caso sono falsi). Ieri notte invece non c'era nessuno pero' a un certo punto e' sbucato dal buio un soldato con un fucilone. Mi ha chiesto il passaporto e glie l'ho dato. Poi mi ha chiesto il certificato del vaccino della febbre gialla. E li' erano cavoli, perche' non ce l'ho e infatti fino all'ultimo ero stato in dubbio se farmelo a Kampala, pero' vari turisti mi avevano assicurato che non lo chiedono mai. Questo vaccino l'ho fatto quasi 10 anni fa, e la sua durata e' proprio 10 anni, quindi in realta' sono in regola, solo che nel frattempo ho perso il certificato. Allora ho iniziato a rispondere un po' vagamente: si' tutto a posto, l'ho fatto! Lui pero' insisteva per vedere il certificato. Era chiaro che in realta' stava cercando solo di spillarmi qualcosa di soldi e io qualche euro glielo avrei pure dato ma avevo paura che cosi' facendo ammettevo di non essere in regola e poi lui mi chiedeva una cifra molto piu' alta. Perche' in effetti e' obbligatorio per entrare in Kenya (e anche in Etiopia... speriamo bene). Allora ho continuato a essere vago, ho detto che comunque sarei stato solo di transito, ma lui insisteva. Alla fine ho fatto pretend to look for him among some papers and then I told him that I had it in your backpack on the bus. Luckily he did not want to set off the bus, said a couple of times and then how do we want? Then he finally shook his head, smiled in surrender and made me sign that I could go.
Shortly after we left on the bus, the second episode. There was a roadblock and stopped us. So far nothing strange, all the roads in Africa are filled with roadblocks. Whether you're on the bus, minibus, on your own (like when I was in Namibia by car or by scooter in Zanzibar) will stop a myriad of times. There 's a very fast control, many smiles, maybe a few jokes and go. Sometimes a few searches, not only borders but also in the middle of a street (in fact, now that I remember to Pablo in Botswana once made him a very long search, I and the rest of the bus waited for about twenty minutes before we return it) and ah Then a curious thing that I tell you: especially in Botswana and Zambia from time to time the bus stops, everyone must get off and walk on a kind of cloth soaked lands. Reason? Why 'as' doing the bacteria die under the shoes and can not enter the territory where we are heading! I will not understand these things but it seems a bit 'absurd'.
last night but the cops stopped us were strange, they acted quickly and aggressively. You could see they were tired and stressed. First they made us get off the bus with everything we had on us, in my case the bag with the camera and the important things. Then they made us line up in front of the bright lights of the bus. The headlight on the right and left women us men. It was a strange situation when someone was moving a bit 'from his seat to yell back on line. After about ten minutes we were all still so 'began passport controls and bags, all with a big pile, firing a few inches from the face of people.
Among other things, the type said to me: not you! not you! I was dazzled by this fucking pile until 'I finally focused who had no hand in my passport but to someone else and then actually, as tanned, I was not the black of the picture. Then I went to the bus and another policeman in front of the entrance began with a sort of wand to hit my bag and said repeatedly that you are here and that you are here? I said: Stop! There 'the camera! "What are you doing?" "Photos" "Ah, you are a journalist then?" "No." "So?"
At that point I did not know what to say, I do not know if an interrogation so 'absurd madness or method was well prepared so' then breaks down and admits a whole (but looking at the face of the policeman would opt for the former) but 'to Fortunately, a colleague called him and he you and 'away. Then I finally get on the bus, but you could not take anything on. All luggage should be put under. Some had accepted and were recovered, others were complaining 'cause if there is indeed' something delicate them in the bag 'as it sfracassa for sure. The driver from the frightened and pleading kept saying no, please do not complain, do as they say, they do it for us! I obviously I was not complaining, just waiting to put all their luggage and then hope to find a relatively good for my camera, but 'for some strange reason the police interrogation he called me, he conspired a bit 'maybe with a colleague in Swahili and then said that I, only I could bring the luggage with me on it. Among other things, I was the only one not to be searched. Will be the usual privileges muzungo (another that I had said, in all places where I've been so far, regardless of the language you speak, whites and especially white non-Africans are called: muzungo. It 's not a derogatory term, a little 'is perhaps ironic')
However, perhaps because they fear attacks 'anywhere before getting back on the bus (the station before leaving, after the border, after each pause) There' s always been a cop checked with metal detectors for all passengers.
respond to comments. Unless
Hello! I knew you would come back in full form. All hilarious.
PS The captain is not lost: patrolling the area around where you are heading for safety.
Hello Danilo! Well, I thought now that my contribution to the revolution could be more 'intellectual type of action ... But 'no! better the action and 'ten thousand times more' fun! Maybe you could do the rafting of the Thames with a surprise attack at the City of London! (I heard that on April 1 and 'been an April Fool financial and 4000 fighters have put fire to the City all day. We hope it is just the beginning!)
Concerning the photos were taken by the same organizers of rafting. The photographer moved over land on the shore and stood in the hot spots. Then simply burst. I have a cd full of photos, I put only a few, quite by chance.
Photo
Monkey
Monet
Henceforth photos of and around Lake Bunyonyi.
Non credo di aver finora parlato dell'arte africana. E' straordinaria, in particolare masks (used in rituals, in theatrical performances, dances, or as amulets).
More 'or less during our Middle Ages created works that resemble our contemporary art. Of course, in their case it's "Primitivism" while in our case and 'pure' genius'. " In that regard, here's a
Congolese mask of the sixteenth century used as an amulet for healing. Who 'of Benevento has already' figured out what our national artist of international fame this "looks." Sgam! ;-)
Now I must go. The next time I put some photos of Kampala and Nairobi.
my deepest sympathy 'to people who are suffering because of the terrible earthquake in Abbruzzo.
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